Anyone who takes a vague interest in fashion will know and love Yohji Yamamoto. For decades, designers who have followed in has wake can only hope to achieve his attention to detail, exquisite pattern cutting and visionary, deconstructed, modern individuality. I love him and the most wonderful Robert Walker portrait of him hangs in our bedroom. Every morning I say hello to Yohji who smiles at me in that mirthful manner he has.
I happened upon this piece in my absolutely favourite Manchester shop, Goodstock. It’s a charity shop with a difference; carefully curated, friendly and a fashion goldmine. I feel a bit peevish about revealing this as it’s the best secret in the city. However, I do because all the profits go towards volunteering projects for young people to help increase their skills, confidence and employability.
Most of my work attire comes from there; I seem to have fallen into a uniform of dress (Freda, Goat etc), scarf (usually McQueen) and boots – including these tasty Red or Dead ones I bought with the jacket.
I’ve had many special finds from Goodstock but I’m not sure I’ll top this one for a while. Fall/Winter 2000 cotton and silk jacket with quilting to the lower half and sleeves with cuff detailing. I love the accentuation on the hips, because of the light quilting, that makes me feel good rather than frumpy; he plays with proportions in such flattering ways. If you look carefully you can see the multiple panels that make up the jacket and chop the pattern up. This stops the pattern from becoming too overbearing and dominating the wearer. It’s one size too large but I have found Yohji’s relaxed styling means this doesn’t matter so much. What does is that he cuts for the Japanese market which is helpful when you’re only 155cm tall.
Can you believe others passed it by?